Want to know why when people go surfing they only share pictures of them standing on the beach with a surfboard tucked under their arm– confidently going to go conquer the waves? Because it is impossible to get a legit photo when surfing for the first time. I am not even going to pretend that I am a good surfer. My instructor at one point said, "The waves aren't perfect." I told him, "No, I'm not perfect." He laughed at that. I spent was able to stand up and ride the wave in five whole times. Five out of some ungodly number of attempts. But, I had a lot of fun and I am excited for my next lesson... probably sometime this week. Towards the end I think I was starting to get the hang (haha pun) of it. I definitely just need a lot more practice. In order to keep myself from quitting or getting frustrated I kept putting it in the perspective of alpine skiing and how so many people just give up on that, but really if they put in the time and effort anyone can do it. I am going to keep that thought in my head for the next two months.
So after two hours, swallowing about a gallon of salt water, two scraped knees, a very sore body, and hearing the word "balance!" way too much, I have these to show off:
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Whomp. I am somewhere under the wave. |
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Hehehe |
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A personal favorite. |
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OKAY! I am on the shore because I successfully stood up
and rode the wave all the way in. Yay!! Go me!! |
"secret training"?? i think yes. love you long time
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